Tuesday, November 19, 2013
Muguet, Freesia, Rose, Jasmine, Orchid, White Lilly, Exotic Flowers.
Sandalwood, Amber, Musk, Exotic Wood, Vanilla, Litchi.
There sure is an army of notes in this brew from the house of Lauder, circa 1998. By glancing at the list of notes alone, this looks like a garden variety, fruity floral. Dazzling Gold turns out to be a fruity floriental that elevates itself over the mundane. This isn't spectacular by any means, but it does manage to lean innocuous while maintaining a well done quality. Let's just say this is good, non offensive and a rather enjoyable wear. That's more to the point.
This is one of those overlooked releases that was probably dismissed as " another fruity floral from the house of Lauder". I say that because this is an above average scent and the little I've heard about it sounds contrived. The heart accord is lively, feminine, lucid and long lasting. Floral accords in more expensive perfumes should smell this good. The drydown was another pleasant surprise consisting of subtle woods, ambery musk, vanilla and earth tones. All in all, Dazzling Gold is a nice wear with acceptable sillage and 5 hour longevity on my skin. Thumbs up from Aromi for Lauder's fruity floriental and as always, a sample wear is recommended before purchase.
Jasmine, Cedar, Tuberose.
I'm amazed at the strength of the Eau de Toilette series of Tea Rose. The opening volley, if not prudently applied, will cause the Wow factor in a negative way. That said, it's such an easy problem to avoid by spraying from a distance and being easy on the trigger. Strong fragrances are economical simply due to the obvious and if they showcase one or two notes, they make terrific layering scents. Such is the case ( once again ) with The Perfumer's Workshop Tea Rose Jasmin. This isn't a soliflore like Tea Rose ( on my skin ), but it's close.
The extended drydown exhibits subtle woods, but at least on my skin, Tea Rose Jasmin is all about Jasmine and Tuberose. For the whopping price of $4.99 for 30ml, this is a no brainer for Jasmine lovers. Others may realize other facets in their wearings, but no matter. For the price point, quality and presence, this is hard to beat. Sillage is very good with longevity approximately 5 hours on me. Thumbs up from Aromi for the little bottle with the tiny price tag and huge aroma. A sample wear is recommended, but if you enjoy Jasmine, just buy the damn thing for 5 bucks and be done with it.
Sunday, November 17, 2013
Leather, Spice, Tobacco.
The opening accord of Chopard's Oud Malaki is bracing, but not unpleasant. It's an aromatic introduction and I'm of the opinion that those who gravitate towards ouds in general will find it interesting. The rendition of Tobacco doesn't waste any time merging into the accord. It's actually a refined version ( if there is such a thing ) and I cannot help to describe it as such. Within the first 5 minutes, you will have experienced an attention getting blend of citrus, resin and tobacco. It leans masculine to my sensibilities.
The oud has been upholding this platform from the beginning, but again, it smells streamlined, deliberate and tuned exceptionally well to play off the other aromas wafting around in this enjoyable brew. The amber in the base and drydown is subtle, but effective. It pairs nicely with the still going resinous aspect of Oud Malaki.
Sillage is intelligent with longevity approximately 6 hours on me with moderate sprays. Thumbs up from Aromi for Chopard's Oud Malaki. As always, a sample wear is highly recommended.
Friday, November 15, 2013
Amber, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Tonka Bean, Musk.
As I wore this fragrance today, I naturally had Mrs. Aromi take a few whiffs minutes after applying it. Once I see her cringe and wrinkle her brow ( which happens 99.72% of the time ), I awaited her reply. "Soap.......but not good soap".........and that was that. Like always, I walked away and headed to my office, chuckling under my breath so she can't see my face nor hear me. There's only one other reviewer I know who is just as tough on fragrances and that's Trebor from Basenotes.
The opening accord is promising, generating a fresh blast of citric fruit. I like its vibrancy and after a few minutes, it affords the wearer a smooth transition to the floral heart. All this transpires within 4 minutes or so, then Presence Cool breaks down on the side of the road like my old 1966 Ford Mustang used to. Well, that may be a bit dramatic on my part, but suffice it to say that Presence Cool doesn't do its base accord any justice whatsoever. Have we run out of gas.........or perhaps the battery is dead? I can get my car repaired, but I'm at a loss to fix a scent that can't make it to the finish.
Sillage is average with longevity approximately 3 hours on me before reapplication. Neutral rating from Aromi for Presence Cool. Now please excuse me while I go play detective and find out if my wife is somehow having an internet affair with Trebor and doing perfume reviews behind my back.
Thursday, November 14, 2013
Well, so much for my trying to describe notes, accords, transitions, etc.........Perhaps I should just say that Tea Rose is a big, fat- assed Rose scent and call it good? I actually could do that, but then I wouldn't get the opportunity to be long-winded and drone on about the merits or pitfalls of the this particular fragrance. After all, what's the point of reviewing anything if you can't ( or won't ) describe it as best you can?
For those who eschew Rose in general, please continue to do so regarding Tea Rose. It will rock your socks and not in a good way. For those who enjoy the note, you may want to fast from your daily Starbucks for one day and use that money to buy this. This will last you God knows how long and also doubles as a terrific closet spray or on clothes as well. I also found that if I spray it on myself from a distance of 12 inches or so, it eliminates the caustic nature of the top accord.
I push the envelope, at times, pertaining to the scents I choose to wear. Tea Rose however, is out of my wheelhouse. I couldn't pull this off whatsoever, but layering may have some potential. Sillage is deceitful and one has to have presence of mind when applying this. Longevity has already been described as good, so what we are left with is an economical, realistic rendition of Rose that a 5 year child could afford. Thumbs up from Aromi for this 1972 release by The Perfumer's Workshop and to hell with the sample wearing recommendation. Just borrow $10 from your kid and head over to T.J.Maxx.
The Eau de Toilette release of Chloe is one of a few variations on the same theme. I haven't experienced the others, but do have a bottle of the EDT we are discussing. Naturally, Mrs. Aromi detests it, so it only stands to reason that I'll think it has merit. Most of the time, this "theory" holds water and once again, it proves itself to be correct. Chloe EDT is one of those fresh, yet polarizing fragrances that people either enjoy or find unwearable. That quality is usually reserved for fragrances that aren't of the "fresh" variety, yet I can see why some just can't like this scent.
The tuning of floral notes relegates Rose to be an accent and I find it works well with the Freesia. The suggestion of woods is here, but on my skin, it's more an earthy element augmented by soft, violet tones. Chloe displays a stem-like quality along with an uncomplicated array of floral aromas that remains moist. It's fresh, pleasant and surprisingly long lasting. I can't bring myself to love Chloe EDT, but I do like and respect it. Sillage is appropriate with longevity approximately 5 hours on my skin. A Positive- Neutral rating from Aromi for Chloe Eau de Toilette with a strong recommendation to sample before pulling the trigger.
Wednesday, November 13, 2013
I read what I could about Jovan's Intense Oud and I suppose what intrigued me the most was it's apparent scarcity. I pulled the trigger on a few bottles and figured if I didn't like it, I could always sell it. I genuinely had hoped I'd like it. After all, more than a few had included "silky" and "niche-like" in their descriptions. In the end however, we like what we like and the numerous oud releases available are like comparing apples to apples. So many interpretations of this particular note flood the market that, what one deems a gem, another deems unfit to wear. I happen to fall in the middle here. Being that this is a "Jovan" has nothing to do with my opinion of Intense Oud. In truth, this doesn't smell like a "Jovan", but that in itself just isn't enough for me.
All the listed players are here, but the tuning of them is where Intense Oud loses me. I love Labdanum, yet it's treated like the proverbial red-headed stepchild and lacks the attention it needs. The favorite son here is agarwood and I admit to liking it when tempered a certain way with other notes such as these. For this consumer, Oud is wearable and even better, enjoyable as long as it doesn't possess that B.O. quality. I get hints of it during the top and heart accords, but less as the wearings ensue.
Sillage is good and longevity is approximately 5-6 hours on my skin. Neutral rating from Aromi for Jovan's Intense Oud with a strong recommendation to sample before purchase.
Monday, November 11, 2013
I previously reviewed one other Dr. Vranjes 20% Extrait and once again, I have issue with the extrait label. It's not a big deal or deal breaker, but I mention it for the simple sake of accuracy. I could be mistaken and this is actually "extrait", but I doubt it. That said, it boils down to overall aroma, presence and lasting power. Rosa Cassis wears like a substantial EDT on my skin and is a very nice interpretation of Rose.
Rosa Cassis is supple, feminine and extremely pleasant to my nose. If I was forced to socially categorize it, I would deem it as semi-elegant. It possesses manners by staying close while retaining a fullness to someone coming into your personal space. The sillage is mild and while that may be a drawback to some, it has merit to others looking for a scent that is polite and noticeable at the same time.
Longevity, on my skin, is that of an EDT as I mentioned before. It affords me 4-5 hours before thoughts of reapplication. Thumbs up from Aromi for Rosa Cassis by Dr. Vranjes. As always, a sample wear is highly recommended.
Sunday, November 10, 2013
Voile Blanc is yet another Arabian style sample sent to me, courtesy of CoutureGuru. As his review attests, it is distributed in a different fashion than your conventional "houses". Just the fact that a merchant can have a quality, duty-free scent created and marketed to a target audience is impressive. Too bad it isn't readily available through the normal means of purchase as Voile Blanc is well done and "adjusted" to suit palettes other than local. I say that because the west, as a whole, seems to favor "subtle yet substantial" over ostentatious.
The major players on my skin are the Leather, Incense and Cedar. I can only assume the listed Musk and Spice enhance the totality of Voile Blanc in a subtle fashion. Because they fail to come alive during the wearings doesn't necessitate any negativity. To be honest, Voile Blanc is just fine the way it is. Others may experience a tangible rendition of spice and musk, so know this is simply my opinion. Sillage is tuned intelligently with longevity approximately 5-6 hours on me, with more lingering during extended drydown. Thumbs up from Aromi for Voile Blanc by Traveller Limited. This should be tried if at all possible.
Saturday, November 9, 2013
Ehsas is another, tempered release from Arabian Oud. The Lime and Cedar combination that greets you upon application is reminiscent of a handful of others that use this direction. The "Lime" never smells like Lime to me. Whatever that note actually is changes the complexion of the wood notes. In this case, it's Cedar along with Amber.
Perhaps others experience Lime? I never do, but it certainly influences the other players in the accords. It's all good however, since the wearer is either going to like the tuning or not. If a perfumer decided to call an ingredient "skunkataneous combustus" and it performed like a well implemented rendition of civet, would it matter?
The base and drydown of Ehsas is still all about woods. Amber lends some earth and resins and works rather well with the still-going Cedar. All in all, Ehsas is a nice woody with floral and zesty nuances. I would have no problem wearing this in cool to cold temperatures. This "feels" like a few others that didn't work on me in the heat, but I could be remiss since I've only worn it in the winter. Sillage is average, but full and longevity is approximately 5-6 hours on my skin. Naturally, the skin scent stage adds to that. A Positive-Neutral rating from Aromi for Ehsas by Arabian Oud. I like it, but don't love it. You might however, so a sample wear is an intelligent choice.
Wednesday, November 6, 2013
Prestige Rose is an interesting take on Rose and Incense. It's these two that rise to the top on my skin immediately upon application. The rose is such that it gives me the impression of possessing dew and dust simultaneously. It's a well done rendition and it could be that it simply reacts nicely on my skin. At any rate, I like it and there's a very mellow oud-like quality thrown in for good measure.
Normally, scents of this genre storm out of the sprayer and can be a bit rambunctious for the first 5 minutes or so. At least that's what I've found to be true. That, in itself, is not a problem as most die down as the heart accord commences. Prestige Rose however, applies itself already settled, with no need to wait it out.
For fans of assorted Rose scents, Prestige Rose would be a good choice to add to the sample list. Personally, I enjoy Rose and Incense when tuned intelligently and this scent represents both notes elegantly. Sillage is moderate, yet never underwhelming and longevity is 5 hours or a little better on my skin. It's even longer if you take into account the "skin scent" stage. Thumbs up from Aromi for Arabian Oud's Prestige Rose and as always, a sample wear is highly recommended. Another thank you to CoutureGuru for turning me on to this one. :)
Nutmeg, Pepper, Sage.
Amber, Orris, Oakmoss, Tobacco.
It was time I revisited Deauville pour Homme by Michel Germain. I didn't care for it much 4 years ago and since my tastes have evolved some, it's only fair to go back and re-sample certain releases. I have a nearly full bottle and as I wear it, it has either improved a few notches with age.......or..........I really am beginning to like certain elements I did not appreciate in the past. I still do not find it a "must have", but I'm warming up to it a bit. I wore it as my S.O.T.D and it performed well. It has occurred to me that this is better suited for colder temps and today was proof of that. It never topped 38 degrees and I was outside all day.
The opening gives me the illusion of "fruit" being incorporated in the top accord. It lasts only a few minutes before giving way to peppery spices and a subtle, underlying citrus. Nuances of berry and tobacco are on its heels, while other listed ingredients never fully come to fruition on me. They simply augment and afford some heft to the composition.
It's safe to say Deauville pour Homme is a tobacco scent accented heavily by sweetened spice and a berry-like quality. I'm glad I went back to this to learn this performs well in winter. Sillage is average, but the scent wears heavy and close. Longevity is approximately 5 hours plus on my skin. A positive neutral rating from Aromi since I still can't love this, but have found opportunity and a new respect for it. As always, a sample wear is highly recommended.
Tuesday, November 5, 2013
Rose, Tuberose, Orange Blossom.
Ambrette Seed, Musk, Oakmoss, Sandalwood, Vetiver.
In 2005, Ralph Lauren released Blue for women. I've only had opportunity to smell this very recently. In wearing Blue, I initially thought it was rather banal and innocuous. After a few wearings however, it occurs to me that Blue isn't exactly shallow. It may be a tad generic, but there's more here than meets the nose.
Blue opens fresh as an aquatic floral, then becomes more substantial while lowering volume and presence as it glides toward the heart accord. It doesn't become "heavier", it simply morphs into a more floral mode and that seems to give the illusion of gravitas. What I suppose I like most is the fact that it never evolves the sweetness I expected from the notes implemented. It's tuned for a light-hearted wear and it succeeds. This is a subtle, chypre variation that's feminine, versatile and possesses nothing controversial during any stage of development.
Think summertime. Think running out to the mall and needing a last minute choice to spray and go. Think about an evening in jeans or sweats in front of the tube with that special someone. Think a bit elegant. Think modest-versatility and then wear Blue. It's all good. Thumbs up from Aromi and a recommendation to sample first.
Monday, November 4, 2013
Peony, Plum, Frangipani.
The first inclination, with fragrances such as this, is to mentally dismiss them before trying them. Yes, it is snobbery, but I repress those knee-jerk reactions and have learned to give "everything" a whirl. In this manner, I've found some unlikely gems or, at the very least, some viable fragrances that I would have otherwise scorned.
Enter Dream Angels Desire by Victoria's Secret. I picked up a 7.5ml. EDP at the local Goodwill for $1 recently and am wearing it now as we speak. It wears like a parfum, but the longevity is lacking just a bit.
There's a very mild spice percolating in this brew and remains barely noticeable throughout the top and heart. Once the base and drydown gather momentum, it's a bit more evident; albeit the entire scent has lowered in volume and presence. It blends well with the soft woods and musk that bring Dream Angels Desire to the finish.
Sillage is moderate and longevity is approximately 3 hours or a little better on my skin. Thumbs up from Aromi for D.A.D. by Victoria's Secret. A sample wear is highly recommended.
My friend CoutureGuru sent me various samples months ago which included Arabian oils. I personally own only one CPO ( Mukhallat Malaki ) and have used about 80% of that bottle by mixing it with unscented body lotion.
Marwah, on the other hand, would perform better applying it directly to the skin. It's not as strong as Mukhallat Malaki and doesn't need to be diluted. Marwah can easily be worn by both genders and is appropriate for a variety of occasions.
Everything about Marwah is laid back and fit for a relaxing situation. I'm not insinuating that it's not elegant, it's simply versatile enough to avoid being pigeonholed. The amber and sandal provide a blended affair of soft, resiny woods that lean just a hair sweet. Marwah permits the wearer to simply smell good without having to think about it.
Sillage is good with longevity approximately 6 hours on my skin. Thumbs up from Aromi for Al Haramain's Marwah and as always, a sample wear is recommended before purchase.
Sunday, November 3, 2013
Wearing Amber Ood by Rasasi at once signals a linear scent with hints of ingredients not listed. I liked this from the moment I dabbed it on my skin. Marketed to women, this is definitely wearable for men as Agarwood seems to be the great equalizer, regardless of how predominant it is or isn't in a given composition. In Amber Ood, the oud is represented more politely than usual and permits the floral, resin and sensual tones to seep through. It's tuned rather well for western sensibilities and as the heart accord commences, the oud takes even more of a back seat to what smells like a moist Rose and Jasmine duo to me.
With Amber Ood, there's no surprises from what you experience during the intro until its dissipation. The low volume oud becomes even softer, accented nicely by a commensurate amber and a very centered "rose". The listed Musk never comes alive on my skin, but perhaps it embellishes the composition without my ability to notice it. At any rate, Amber Ood is very economical, respects boundaries and most importantly, it smells very pleasant.
Sillage is good with longevity approximately 6 hours on my skin. Thumbs up from Aromi for Rasasi's Amber Ood and as always, a sample wear is recommended. A special thanks to my friend Couture Guru for his generous samples !!!!!
I own only one other Germain fragrance, Deauville pour Homme. I reviewed it 4 years ago or so and wasn't that impressed. That one is on my list to revisit, but as I wear Tattoo, I'm experiencing a house similarity that pertains to whatever platform this is built on, along with the denseness inherent in both.
Tattoo is yet another tobacco offering, but that's not a bad thing. There's always room for another, as long as it's well done. Even better if you find one as cheap as I found Tattoo. I believe I paid $9.99 for a NIB 100ml.
Sillage is acceptable with longevity approximately 4 hours on me before I'd reapply. Tattoo wears linear on my skin and I'd be remiss if I didn't say I have better spicy tobacco masculines in my wardrobe regardless of price point. A positive neutral rating from Aromi for Michel Germain's Tattoo for Him and a strong recommendation to sample first.
Friday, November 1, 2013
Cardamom, Basil, Pepper.
Ambrene, Cashmeran, Patchouli, Tobacco, Musk.
I first tried CK One Shock for Men from a tester at a local clothing retailer. I was purchasing a leather blazer and a few other things for work and this was sitting on the counter by the register. Other than CK One, not much from the house of Klein has inspired me to buy. I blasted 2 healthy sprays on the back of my hand as I waited for my receipt. I remember thinking what a strange, sweet but oddly compelling scent it was.
Within 10 minutes, Shock for Men settled down from its spirited introduction to a heart consisting of sweetened, spicy tobacco with balsamic accents. This is the soul of Shock for Him and although it transitions slightly from here, its identity is in the heart. The sweet quality morphs from "candied" to the more sensual tones of labdanum augmented by subtle musk and earth.
Before I sprayed it on at the store, I just knew I'd hate it. The bottle and name dictated that I'd hate it. The aesthetics reminded me of something marketed to teenyboppers.......and naturally, I'd hate it. I knew......I knew......I knew........and all the while, I kept sniffing my hand.
Sillage is mushroom-like for 5 minutes, then dissipates to average throw. Longevity is approximately 4 to 5 hours on me. Thumbs up from Aromi for Calvin Klein's Shock for Him with the warning that this is an assuredly love-it or hate-it scent.
Thursday, October 31, 2013
Hard to believe this overlooked cheapie has been around since 1995. This is truly a case of a fragrance imitating its name. This is casual, versatile, economical and pleasant. At the very worst innocuous, Casual at once smells a bit classical, but light and energetic.
There's nothing heavy handed about this fragrance, but the immediate opening suggests that it could be. Instead, Casual chooses to be what it is; lucid and spicy with a subtle ratio of floral and woods to give it character and the right amount of substance. The "weight" of this masculine makes it an intelligent choice for the warmer months. It smells "winter" but wears "summer".
I believe I paid a whopping $4.99 for a 50ml. NIB at the local TJ or Ross store. If you'd like to add a semi-classical smelling scent to your drobe that possesses versatility while respecting the space of those around you, Casual would be a good choice to at least sample. Sillage is moderate with good presence and longevity is approximately 3 plus hours on my skin. Thumbs up from Aromi for Paul Sebastian's Casual for Men. As always, a sample wear is recommended.
The reviews on Amazing for Men by Bill Blass are scathing. While it may be true that this masculine isn't exactly a good representative of the name bestowed upon it, I don't find it terrible. For the amazing price I paid for a new bottle ( $5 ), it was worth it from an economic standpoint. Naturally, Mrs. Aromi likes it quite a bit, which continues to prove that you simply never know how an aroma you are wearing is perceived by others. On the other hand, my wife's nose seems to work in reverse compared to the majority of humanity, so you get the picture.............
Extremely linear, what you smell the first 2 minutes is what you get for the life of the wearings. I suppose when this was first released in 2000, it garnered disappointment since it smells retro and could be deemed uninspired. In hindsight, it's an acceptable, mediocre fragrance that, for its price point is a justifiable purchase for someone who enjoys aromas circa 1980's.
Sillage is average and longevity is approximately 3-4 hours on my skin. Positive-Neutral rating from Aromi for Amazing for Men by Bill Blass with the recommendation that this be sampled before purchase.
Wednesday, October 30, 2013
Carnation, Leather, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Geranium.
Leather, Tonka Bean, Amber, Benzoin, Oakmoss, Vanilla.
In the early 70's, I used to occasionally wear Pierre Cardin. Back then, who knew about "original formulas" and reformulations? How could anyone know? What I do know in the present is that the bottle I picked up earlier this year is a crass and piercing shell of its former self. This is not something I'll choose to wear and I'll end up giving the 99% remaining to someone.......if I can find a taker.
For the most part, I still enjoy classics as I grew up with them and cannot help but to have a certain fondness for them. On the other hand, I attempt to be honest when reviewing fragrances. Hence my disappointment with this version of Pierre Cardin Pour Monsieur. There's really no reason, pertaining to the listed notes, that Pour Monsieur shouldn't be a reissue that comes very close to the original formula. Unfortunately, it isn't and I'm uncertain if it has to do with ratio or ingredient quality. In the end, I suppose that doesn't matter. This is........what it is.........
Thumbs down from Aromi for Pierre Cardin's Pour Monsieur. Sillage is strong and longevity for a cologne is impressive. This is just too much of a bad thing. As always, a sample wear is HIGHLY recommended.
Tuesday, October 29, 2013
I own 23 by Jordan and having already liked 2 other Jordan releases enough to purchase them, I bought this one blind. Had I smelled it beforehand, I would have refrained from pulling out the wallet.
23 isn't a bad fragrance, it simply isn't in my wheelhouse. I own enough masculines that exude a citric-herbaceous quality. If 23 proved to one-up any of them, I'd be satisfied, but sadly it fails to grab ( or keep ) my attention. I find both sillage and longevity seriously lacking in this one.
With my complaints aired, I'd be remiss in not stating this smells pretty good. 23 is structured to be a linear scent and it doesn't disappoint in this area. The aroma is the same from start to finish with the volume lowering over the course of the wearing. Perhaps this would be fitting for some fragrance lovers who have occasion to wear a low-throw scent that doesn't last but a few hours. It does smell pleasant after all and it is cost effective for sure.
Jordan's 23 opens fully developed and possesses no surprises. Sillage is what it is and longevity is approximately 2 hours on my skin. Neutral rating from Aromi for "23" with a strong recommendation to sample before purchasing if possible.