My apologies for the unplanned sabbatical.

Life can be a real bitch. The past 5 weeks or a bit longer ( as I'm too tired to recall ), my job has completely taken over. It's not by choice since I put a premium on maintaining balance in my life. Presently, I have absolutely none and by the look of things, it may take longer than I or Corporate had anticipated. Chalk it up to problematic staffing.

I feel bad for neglecting my blog. I thoroughly enjoy it and miss all the things I'm not smelling ( good or not so good...).

Please accept my apology for not updating anything whatsoever. I look forward to regaining a normal work routine and naturally turning some of my attention back to reviewing. I have every intention of continuing the blog for years to come.

Now, if I can only get a freaking day off or a work shift not consisting of 12-14 hours. Please check the blog occasionally as I will eventually return from the wilderness.

Canoe by Dana ( revised from 2009 )

Lemon, Lavender, Clary Sage, Carnation, Cedar, Clove, Geranium, Patchouli, Heliotrope, Oakmoss, Musk, Tonka Bean, Vanilla.

I recently read a rare fragrance review submitted by Michael Storer. Rare in the sense that Michael Storer doesn't really review scents and then upload his opinion for the public to read. He is an Independent Perfumer who creates and distributes his own brand. From what I can tell, Michael is also a very nice person in a tough and competitive business.

He recently chose to submit a review of Canoe ( of all things ! ) and when I finished reading his post, I was inspired to revise my own review. I had every intention of doing so anyway, but Michael's review persuaded me to do it now. Let it be known that I actually do own and wear Canoe on a rotation basis.

The Canoe Cologne I own is an EdC from approximately the mid 1960's. I don't know how much of a difference there is between it and later releases. I have about 25ml. remaining from the original 4oz. bottle and since my rotation is rather large, I wear Canoe about 3 times per year ( give or take ). I take this approach with basically all the fragrances in my wardrobe. It also helps justify my owning them in the first place.

Canoe opens with an assertive spicy citrus that is immediately identifiable as classic. Some will find it dated. I prefer to think of it as retro-comfort. The Lavender, Sage and florals come at you as one and all are on the muscular side. The Woods and Clove aren't tuned at a high volume, but they have girth and suggest a denseness underneath the opening accord. It really isn't until a few hours have elapsed that the presence dies down and a fougiental quality emerges. There's earth, green and musk that evolve alongside a slightly powdery and soft vanilla.

 In the muscle car days of the mid to late 60's, it was common to smell Canoe, Brut, Jade East, Aqua Velva, Mennen and English Leather. All these years later, Canoe is the most likable of these drugstore fragrances to me, however others may hold a different opinion. The 2 stages I derive from wearing Canoe still smell good to me all these years later.

Sillage is good with longevity approximately 6 hours on me from an Eau de Cologne. It's a skin scent for even longer than that. Thumbs up from Aromi for Canoe by Dana and as always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Salvatore Ferragamo Platinum pour Homme

My best guess as to the accords are as follows :

Cyclamen, Bergamot, Grapefruit, Ginger.
Cardamom, Geranium, Pepper, Cedar, Orris Root.
Sandalwood, Vetiver, Musk.

I apologize for having to guess at the listed notes. I can find no info on this "Platinum" version of Ferragamo, yet it's exactly what it states on the NIB 50ml. I picked up recently. It's not closely related to the original Ferragamo pour Homme, so it's an entity all its own, yet with no forthcoming information about year of release or ingredients. Let's just call it the Mystery Bargain Bin Ferragamo for Men. I know it doesn't exactly roll off the tongue, but it is what it is............

The opening is rather enjoyable in spite of it possessing that chemical vibe I associate with more current creations. Since I don't know when this was actually released, it may have been on the cutting edge of construction and aroma. In any event, I like it enough to employ this fragrance as a work frag and call it good.

The opening of Platinum is a slightly spicy citric accord that seems to be underpinned by a herbal-marine quality. It smells like a rendition of Grapefruit and Cyclamen with some pepper and ginger. I could be remiss, but it's good in spite of being slightly odd. There's also a subtle aromatic quality with hints of balsam that may or may not be Cardamom. All these aspects come alive on my skin for the entire top and heart accords. After 20 minutes or so, earth and woods with musk emerge in a rather effortless transition. The overall aroma is contemporary regardless of when this was introduced to the public.

Sillage is intelligent with longevity approximately 5 hours on me. Thumbs up from Aromi for Ferragamo's Platinum pour Homme. As always, a strong recommendation to sample before purchase is advised.

Newport by Caswell Massey

Bergamot, Mandarin, Lemon, Lavender, Geranium, Muguet, Rose, Ambergris, Cedar, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Musk.

After wearing Newport by Caswell Massey a few times and then reading what others had to say about this recent formulation, I found some of the opinions harsh. I have no way to compare it to the heralded vintage formula, nor can I use memory as I've never tried the original.

Enter the current version. I do agree with some reviews that this rendition does not bring about the sense of beach and salt, but there's a long line of fragrances that fail to represent their depictions. However, Newport isn't so far off the mark that it's a complete misrepresentation.

I can imagine wearing Newport ( or something similar ) in a beach setting. It smells classic due to the way Citrus, Lavender and Geranium are implemented. It's assuredly retro, but it seems to have that intangible I like that keeps me sniffing.

Newport, at least on my skin, is top heavy in the sense that the opening lasts an extremely long time. That's not a bad thing because I like the top accord and after some time has elapsed, Rose and Vanilla creep into the transition incrementally. It's as if they are melded together and augment the heart with a dash of sweet and warmth.

Newport traverses along, offering whiffs of its opening and the Rose-Vanilla duo. It takes quite some time for the Ambery Musk to come to fruition, but when it does, it's a rather well done trump card. The Woods never materialize as such on me, but I'm persuaded that they fill out some empty spaces underneath like a supporting cast.

To say that Newport is trash ( like I've read ) is misdirected. I understand the whole reformulation dilemma, but some current versions have merit. To me, Newport falls into this camp in spite of my never having smelled the original release.

Newport also possess an impressive lasting power for a Cologne. I own EDT's that can't match up with it. Sillage is good and longevity is approximately 6 hours on me. The Musky Amber extended drydown lasts until the next day. Thumbs up from Aromi for Caswell Massey's Newport and as always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Anne Klein Eau de Parfum

Galbanum, Green Notes, Aldehydes, Hyacinth, Neroli, Bergamot, Chinese Cinnamon, Cassia.
Bulgarian Rose, Mandarin, Lily of the Valley, Orchid, Fruit Notes, Tuberose, Ylang Ylang.
Sandalwood, Vetiver, Vanilla, Amber, Benzoin, Musk, Civet, Ambergris.

I cannot help but get a charge out of fragrances created and released in the 1980's. Good or bad, they gave new meaning to the definitions of volume and tenacity. Not every creation was made in this fashion, but most were and especially the ones making a run at being financially successful. That time period really did epitomize excess and "more is best". Music, business and fashion were also a testament to this mindset, so it stands to reason that scent would follow suit.

Anne Klein's 1984 release is a big, feminine floriental that needs a sparing hand. The last thing one wants to do is to apply this liberally. However, this isn't strong simply for the sake of being strong. Anne Klein is actually a very good feminine that just needs a deft touch when applying it.

The citric opening is bolstered with smooth spice and a green stem quality. There's no edginess here in spite of the strength. The suggestion of soft fruit is also in the mix and compliments the spiciness rather well. In a few minutes, a nice rendition of rose starts rearing its head slightly above the other floral components present in the heart accord. The essence of Anne Klein is its heart and the sum of its parts is a well blended, concerted effort with Rose, spice and fruit emerging as the dominant notes in an exceptionally full accord. This is 1980's done right.

The base and drydown stages of Anne Klein pull the enjoyable top and heart in the right direction. A woody and vanilla sensuality begin to develop. The contributions from Musk and Ambergris are good indeed and I personally find this the best part of the wearings.

Sillage is very good and longevity is approximately 8 hours on my skin. Thumbs up from Aromi for Anne Klein and as always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Coty Sand and Sable

Jasmine, Gardenia, Peach, Gardenia, Green Notes.

My initial reaction to this 1981 floral concoction is DAMN ! This heady brew is not for everyone and that includes those in proximity to the wearer.

Bordering on crass, Sand and Sable opens with both barrels. I have to tell you that this particular scent simply isn't my cup of tea, but I know from researching it that others like it enough to own it and give it a thumbs up. As for me, Sand and Sable succeeded where many, many others have failed......and that is to give me an eye-piercing headache. I kid you not when I say I had to remove it from my skin ( more than once ) and take some Ibuprofen.

Naturally, the presence would have eventually dissipated and become somewhat tolerable, but I could not wait it out. I don't enjoy headaches and each time I have sampled Sand and Sable, a noticeable and throbbing pain would develop behind both eyes.

I love fragrance and especially sampling all manner of diverse creations, but I draw the line at physical discomfort. I also thought I smelled Tuberose in this mix, but it's a mute point at this juncture.

On my skin, Sand and Sable is a very shrill and penetrating floral. Aside from the fact that an ingredient in its construction is very disagreeable with my chemistry, I doubt very highly that I could ever give this release a positive review. All treble with no midrange or base is not a good thing in my book. Since I could not finish any of the wearings, a big, fat assed neutral rating is warranted with a strong recommendation to sample before purchase.

Legacy 1912 Titanic Eau de Parfum for Women

Lemon, Orange Blossom, Hyacinth, Rose, Violet.

As far as I've read, this fragrance was inspired by a Titanic survivor who was hoping to sell his fragrances in the Big Apple. I happened to run across a nearly full 75ml. bottle last month and purchased it untested.

Released as an EDP, what I noticed after multiple wearings was the politeness inherent in the entire composition. The volume seems to be governed regardless of sprays, but perhaps that's a misconception on my part. At any rate, the dispersion is well behaved and mannerly, while smelling feminine and surprisingly good. Legacy is a citric floral that I can see succeeding in warm temperatures.

Legacy opens with a sheer accord of citrus and leafy green aspects. The blossom is tuned a bit more assertively than the lemon, but their balances are executed very pleasantly. The combination of Hyacinth and Violet is just as good. The leaf and stem qualities compliment the violet rendition and is soon accented by a demure, dry rose. This is Legacy 1912 in its totality, yet as uncomplicated as it is, it's a pleasant and very comfortable wear. It also possesses versatility and can be worn for numerous occasions.

It's true ( at least to me ) that the overall aroma of Legacy 1912 has absolutely nothing to do with the tragedy that took place all those years ago. This is fresh, vibrant and infused with casual femininity. Death, shock and horror couldn't be farther removed.

Sillage is moderate and tuned rather well with longevity approximately 4 hours before morphing into a close scent. I had never even heard of this fragrance until stumbling upon it locally and find it a nice surprise.. Thumbs up from Aromi for Legacy 1912 Titanic by RMS Titanic. As always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Gucci No.3 Parfum

Aldehydes, Coriander, Green Notes, Bergamot.
Orris Root, Jasmine, Muguet, Tuberose, Rose, Narcissus.
Amber, Oakmoss, Leather, Musk, Patchouli, Vetiver.

I am reviewing the parfum version of this 1985 release from Gucci. The minute you get a whiff of this creation, you KNOW that you will not smell fragrances made like this anymore. I wish to avoid rambling on about how the industry is castrating perfumers and saving us from ourselves. It's a done deal and the artistry won't be coming back unless current ( and future ) visionaries can pull a horseshoe out of their collective asses. On the flip side however, not every release from the bygone days was worthy of accolades, despite having less restrictions. I suppose that leaves us truly appreciating the good ones and selectively forgetting the not-so-good.

Gucci No.3 Parfum opens substantially and is devoid of any scratchy qualities usually associated with some EDT's. I'm not accusing the Eau de Toilette version of No.3 of being so as I haven't tried it. Honestly, after wearing this numerous times, I have no inclination to do so. The Parfum version is simply too rich and well balanced to pique my interest in another rendition. Even after initial application, the sillage is low-throw but full and succeeds in being a muscular, close proximity scent.

The top accord is part shimmer and soap that tilts green with subtle spice. There's also an underlying earthy woods quality fortifying the opening. Once a few minutes has elapsed, floral, earth and leathery components being to assimilate like building blocks and claim ownership to the composition. Weaving in and out of the transitions is a mild herbaceous aspect that bolsters the green floral theme of Gucci No.3.

The conglomeration of notes evokes a "clean" sensuality that's very feminine and also sexy. It does represent the 1980's in its construction, but I would not consider it a dated fragrance by any means. Even in its time, it would take a confident woman to successfully wear this and in today's sensibilities, nothing has changed. I find that Gucci No.3 Parfum possesses an exceptional tuning of notes and would perform superbly as a formal or evening scent for any well dressed woman.

Gucci No.3 is part sophistication and part come-hither. I believe this house hit the mark where blending is concerned and the deft use of an accenting leather is quite good. To me, it's a win-win situation, but others may disagree.

Sillage is full but close and longevity is around the 8 hour mark on my skin. Thumbs up from Aromi for Gucci No.3 with a strong recommendation to sample first.

Joy EDP by Jean Patou

Aldehydes, Tuberose, Green Notes, Ylang Ylang, Rose, Orchid, Orris Root, Jasmine, Muguet, Rose, Sandalwood, Musk, Civet.

I'm happy to sneak a review in of Patou's Joy since my hectic schedule ( as of late ) has curtailed any enjoyment I may find outside of my job. I have been asked recently if I was forgoing the blog and fragrance reviews altogether. My answer is hell no. I have fragrances I need to sample and review, but work has become crushing and I'll eventually return to a ( somewhat ) normal routine. Well........I'm hoping it will soon............

Anyway, I'll start by saying I do not know how different the earlier renditions of Joy may have been compared to the bottle that sits before me now. The version I have is in no way vintage, but that means less and less to me as time marches on. We'll never get those oldies back, so it's pointless to carry on about it.

Joy's opening is classically floral and sans any mustiness I've experienced with others in this genre and time period. The wearings I've experienced seem to have all the floral components developing at once. It shimmers in a reserved fashion and showcases the entire floral array on my skin except Orchid. Either I can't detect it or it simply doesn't bloom on me. What does blossom is the green aspect accenting the Rose, Jasmine and Orris. It's a feminine accord that's sophisticated, somewhat reserved yet sexy. That's a pretty neat trick if you ask me.

I suppose I'm most impressed by the blending evident in Joy. Overall, the aroma is full bodied but sans anything overbearing or heavy. The tuning of implemented notes leaves the wearing smelling fresh but never frivolous. Joy is not a casual wear, but doesn't become "serious" either. It falls in between and ends up landing upon "sensually mature".

The green floral quality never evaporates on my skin during any of the wearings. It's rather smooth and the "green" utilized here doesn't possess that cutting quality I normally experience. It assimilates politely and plays well with the nicely integrated earth, floral and sensual tones.

Naturally, any fragrance can be worn by anyone, regardless of age. I will say however, that I'm of the persuasion that Joy would be more suited for women 30 years and upwards. It's simply my opinion and nothing more. Thumbs up from Aromi for Jean Patou's Joy and as always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

Versace Man Eau Fraiche

Lemon, Bergamot, Rosewood, Cardamom.
Cedar, Tarragon, Sage, Black Pepper.
Amber, Musk, Saffron, Ambergris, Woods.

Talk about numerous reviews running the gamut from horrible to fantastic. It seems many people have at least sampled Versace Eau Fraiche, with the majority having a non-favorable opinion. I seem to fall in the middle due to Eau Fraiche's enjoyable start but lackluster finish. I say lackluster not because the base and drydown are inferior renditions, but because it's rather one dimensional with longevity issues.

Imagine, if you will, a race ready to begin and the one you're focused on looks aesthetically fit and in shape. You expect performance from the visual, but you know that can be deceiving. Still, you're confident as your runner gets out of the gate fast and smooth like expected. The race is a set amount of distance and from what you've seen the first few minutes, the game plan looks like a winner.

How surprising is it then when your runner, seemingly fit, cut and ready to go, begins struggling after only 20% of the race has been executed. What started out as a promising endeavor begins evaporating and you soon come to the conclusion that your choice was ill prepared for the task at hand. Eau Fraiche is not alone in this as there seem to be many releases that deliver something similar.

The opening of Eau Fraiche is actually very nice. It's a citric woody with a pepper note that, while not loud, has longevity throughout the life of the scent. The other spices are blurred on my skin, but do manage to add a little heft. I would have loved a discernible Saffron-Ambergris combination, but that never comes to fruition on me. Musk is what appears during the base and drydown stages along with the lingering pepper and what smells like subtle Cedar. Sillage is moderate at best with longevity approximately 2.5 hours on me. Neutral rating from Aromi for Versace Eau Fraiche and a strong recommendation to sample first.

Gucci Guilty Pour Homme

Lemon, Lavender, Orange Blossom, Patchouli, Cedar.

I'm wondering what is causing the guilt in the composition of Guilty Pour Homme? Is the wearer held accountable for smelling generically good or is he responsible for the actions of others once they get a whiff of this?

No matter I suppose. I share none of the guilt associated with this scent. I can safely see myself wearing this without any repercussions whatsoever from anyone. The reason being is that Guilty Pour Homme is guilty of being a "safe" release that would easily smell as good on a man as it would a woman. Yes, this is my opinion. Since when can't the feminine persuasion pull off an aroma of citrus and subtle gourmand with earthy aspects?

I suppose what I like most about the totality of this rather simple fragrance is how unremarkable it really is while performing pleasantly. I used to abhor releases such as this for being uninspired or dull. I think Gucci is guilty of this, but if the conviction fits, then wear it.

Guilty Pour Homme is full without being loud or rude. It would work in close quarters or social settings like a chameleon. I perceive a subtle suggestion of cocoa from the tuning of base notes. It's been there since the opening volley, but unravels slowly over the course of 20 minutes to reveal a comfortable drydown. Guilty Pour Homme doesn't transition much and is devoid of anything polarizing or attention-getting. A hint of sweet, a dash of citrus with earthy woods and viola !!! Gucci stands accused of something innocuously nice with ( I'm guessing ) not much effort. Sillage is average with longevity approximately 4 hours plus on my skin. Thumbs up from Aromi for Gucci and its fragrance felony.

Light Blue Pour Homme by Dolce & Gabbana

Mandarin, Grapefruit, Bergamot, Juniper.
Rosemary, Pepper, Rosewood.
Musk, Incense, Oak Moss.

About 4 years ago, I purchased a bottle while at the mall. For me, 2 things were wrong with that scenario. I never buy "retail" or at least rarely do so, nor do I purchase frags at the mall. I revel in "deals", so that kind of nudges retail out of the picture. Also, at that particular period in time, I was heavily into Classic Masculines and experiencing torrid love affairs with the likes of Capucci Punjab and those of his ilk. Light Blue P.H. just didn't float my boat at the time.

I, like the times, have changed just enough to appreciate certain things I was incapable of enjoying in the not too distant past. I believe this was due to wearing and smelling only powerful fragrances. If I chanced upon something not as substantial, I perceived it as lacking.

These days, I sample enough diversity to circumvent that from happening. It's not by design either, just happenstance. Upon wearing Light Blue Pour Homme again, I experienced nuances that I enjoy, having escaped me the first time around. The citric-wood in the opening is rather good without having to resort to the sledgehammer approach. The scent, as a whole, is airy while maintaining substance. Light Blue's "prime" ( on my skin ) can be summed up as a citric woody with accentuating spices.  The grapefruit rendition isn't conventional in aroma, but performs well within the accord and seems to be a nice counterpoint for the woods.

The fragrance reminds me of something Don Johnson of Miami Vice fame would have worn while working in the Floridian heat. The projection is moderate, but full bodied and performs admirably as a personal space scent. The muskiness that's been present from the beginning slowly elevates in volume once the base and drydown stages commence. Incense and Moss are not standout notes during my wearings, but I'm persuaded that they add dimension to the Citrus, Woods, soft Spices and Musk.

So, 4 years or so later, would I recommend or even repurchase Dolce & Gabbana's Light Blue Pour Homme? I have to say "yes" to the recommendation and "maybe" to the idea of procuring another bottle. I simply have too many fragrances and these days, a fragrance almost has to make my head do the cliched Linda Blair 360 in order for me to go in the wallet. Longevity is average at about 4 hours, so with that, I will give Light Blue the thumbs up and the usual suggestion to sample before purchase.

Azzaro Chrome

Lemon, Rosemary, Pineapple, Bergamot, Neroli.
Coriander, Jasmine, Cyclamen, Oakmoss.
Cedar, Tonka Bean, Musk, Cardamom, Sandalwood, Rosewood.

I suppose the most interesting aspect of wearing Azzaro Chrome ( for me ) has been the interplay between the herbal and marine elements. I'm assuming that this interaction is giving the impression of a metallic quality to numerous reviewers. I can't say I get the metal aspect, but I can see where others may. Aside from the spicy, herbal ozonic nature evident during the life of the scent, Chrome also possesses an underlying green stem note that permeates.

Azzaro Chrome also implements an aromatic component that is at odds with its marine character. I've smelled similar oppositions before in other releases, yet it works extremely well here. To be honest, the theme dreamed up here is rather scatter-shot, but not the results. Citrus, Herb, Spice, Ozone, Woods, Earth, Balsam, Camphor and Musk can easily turn out to be a muddled mess of a fragrance. I'm persuaded to believe that this house got it right.

On my skin, the down and dirty gist is an Herbal Marine with Spice upheld by a slowly rising Musk. The rest of the players accent and augment this theme on me and deliver an interestingly fresh take on what I consider an aromatic, Marine fougere. Horizon and Monsieur Morabito also undertook a similar approach, yet Chrome smells a bit superior and is an easier wear. It's not as bold and definitely less edgy than the aforementioned. It's simply a smoother and more comfortable experience.

In totality, Azzaro Chrome is a fresh and viable fragrance. It leans masculine to me, but I doubt if I would blink an eye if I smelled this on the feminine persuasion. Fresh is fresh, regardless of the accents or who is wearing it I suppose.

Sillage is surprisingly good, but not pervasive. It also has impressive lasting power and actually rivals the longevity. Thumbs up from Aromi for Chrome by Azzaro and as always, a sample wear is highly recommended in lieu of a blind purchase.

Stetson Cologne Spray by Coty

Bergamot, Clary Sage, Lavender, Lime, Lemon.
Carnation, Cedar, Geranium, Jasmine, Orris Root, Patchouli, Vetiver, Amber, Honey, Musk, Tonka Bean, Vanilla.

The first impression I get when spritzing on Stetson Original is the classic aroma I've come to expect from the notes you see listed in the accords above. With scent, it all comes down to how the ingredients  are tuned. Another fragrance could use this exact accord and not smell remotely similar. Stetson's aroma is indicative of classic construction and the word "cologne" in its name belies the strength it actually has.

Stetson opens with an eye opening shot of Citrus and Clary Sage supported by Carnation, Honey and Vanilla. The citrus is zesty and the bite of it compliments the Carnation. The assertive introduction settles down in a few minutes to reveal slowly rising woods, earth and floral tones. There's also a slightly feral quality in the mix that's partly sweet to go along with its growl.

The Vanilla augmented with a hint of what must be Honey is such that, as I sample-wear this, I find it rather addicting. I keep sniffing it and that's usually a good indicator of a nice component. I do have to say that Stetson does have the "cologne" vibe, but it's not a negative here. It is masculine and it seems more suited for mature men. Again, in spite of my just stereotyping this fragrance, it's not a drawback. It simply is what it is. I normally don't care for colognes, but there's always exceptions in life and I find Stetson a very good, bang-for-the-buck example.

From its opening of jazzed up citrus, compliments of Sage and zesty notes, Stetson transitions rather smoothly by lowering the initial presence and raising some earth tones augmented with a scratchy but sensual vanilla finish.

Is it a terrific bargain? I can't say I find many terrific fragrances regardless of price, but for the peanuts this costs, it would behoove classic masculine lovers to try this if they haven't already.  It's an intelligent choice for casual situations when cost is a factor and you enjoy retro aromas.

Sillage is strong the first few minutes, then quickly becomes moderate. Longevity is approximately 4 hours on me and then evolves into a comfortable skin scent that lasts even longer than that. Thumbs up from Aromi for Stetson Original by Coty. As always, a sample wear is highly recommended.

His or Hers? 7: Bvlgari pour Femme/Homme

Bvlgari pour Femme (1994)
Created by Sophia Grojsman nearly twenty years ago, Bvlgari pour femme smells today surprisingly fresh and new. This feminine composition features sweet florals—rose, mimosa, and violet loom large—in a clean resinous base and does not seem dated in the least. Having recently received one of the small .8 ounce purse sprays of this creation, I am able to report that there is no obvious distinction between my “vintage” bottle and the latest iteration of this now classic perfume. Many of Grojsman's perfumes have been reformulated—to their detriment and to the disappointment of most of the people who fell in love with them at the time of their launch. Bvlgari pour femme is a rare exception to the rule. Is this because this jeweler's perfumery branch has not been sold off to one of the corporate conglomerates? Perhaps.

Bvlgari pour Femme edp is one of only a few perfumes which I wore in the twentieth century and still wear today. Not only has it not changed, my attitude toward it also has not. Sometimes we experience a change in tastes and decide that what we used to like or even love, we do not anymore. That certainly happened to me with a number of perfumes, including Oscar de la Renta Oscar. My attitude toward the perfume already in my possession changed—it was the same, but I became disenchanted with the scent.

So in the case of Bvlgari pour Femme edp, the fact that no reformulation appears to have taken place is only one part of the equation. The reformulation of nearly everything else does however suffice to explain why most of the perfumes which I wore in the 1990s are history. I mean literally a part of my perfume history, like old friends from the past whom I have no intention of meeting up with again, even if I could, in theory, say, by joining the hunt for vintage bottles at e-bay. Not going to happen.

Every bit as appropriate as it was back at the time of its launch, Bvlgari pour Femme edp is a sweet violet-rose composition similar in some ways to both L'Artisan Parfumeur Drôle de Rose and Miller Harris Coeur de Fleur. They are all united by their violet-tinged, water-washed rose. The big distinction made by the Bvlgari violet rose is that there is a substantial clean musky base which imparts a decidedly perfumey quality to the composition as a whole. It smells somewhat resinous to me, and in addition to making Bvlgari pour Femme seem more like an elixir than a watery sweet floral, it also adds a kind of golden shimmer. Mimosa contributes to this effect, as well.

More formal than both Drôle de Rose and Coeur de Fleur, Bvlgari pour Femme is also very distinct from Frédéric Malle Lipstick Rose, yet another fine violet-rose creation. The Bvlgari perfume, apparently the first in its olfactory neighborhood—and another iconic idea generated by the great Grojsman—strikes a balance between formality and informality. Wearing this perfume is like getting all dressed up in satin pajamas to spend the night at home.

Perfumer: Sophia Grojsman

Notes (from Parfumo.net): bergamot, neroli, violet leaf, jasmine, jasmine sambac, mimosa, rose, iris, musk, sandalwood

Bvlgari pour Homme (1995)

During the 2012 holiday season, I was plied by retailers with carded samples of Bvlgari pour Homme. I assumed for that reason that it must be a new fragrance. Imagine my surprise on learning that this perfume was launched way back in 1995 and is nearly as old as Bvlgari pour Femme! Is the composition the same today as it was back then? I honestly have no idea, but the fragrance does seem to have a fairly big following, judging by the reviews I've seen. Here's my take:

What a baffling composition. I am told that some twenty-odd notes are present. Of course, we all know that notes are mere metaphors, but in the extremely bizarre case of Bvlgari pour Homme, the metaphors clash head-on with my experience.

Aldehydes? Certainly not. Bergamot, well, okay, yes, I suppose, since it is present in 33% of all perfumes. Maybe I can conceive of this as a tea scent. But the rest? They may as well say that this perfume contains unicorns and elves, since I smell them just about as well!

None of this is to say that there is anything essentially wrong with Bvlgari pour Homme. It's nice. It's light. It's polite. It's clean and keen. It's the perfect scent for the twenty-first-century open-cubicle office. Indeed: it smells to me rather like just pressed and starched long-sleeved cotton shirts complete with linked cuffs and button-down collars!

During most of my wearings of this perfume, my experience remained consistently the same. I simply do not detect the vast majority of notes listed in the hierarchy. One reviewer maintains that this is a big iso-E-super composition, so perhaps it is wiping out all of the other notes. To me, this does not have the same effect as Encre Noire, Terre d'Hermès and the other iso-E-super bombs I've encountered, which I identify immediately by their sinus-clearing capacity. But maybe that is the best explanation for my inability to detect much of anything beyond a freshly pressed and starched cotton shirt in this composition. Certainly the longevity is excellent, which suggests significant aromachemical presence.

I should add a small caveat: during one of my four wearings of this fragrance, the muskiness came through much more strongly than on the other occasions. It occurred to me that this composition would not smell good on someone with an acrid skin—or while exercising.

Perfumer: Jacques Cavallier

Notes (from Parfumo.net): aldehydes, bergamot, lavender, mandarin, mace, neroli, black currant blossom, tea, cyclamen, carnation, geranium, coriander, pepper, rosewood, amber, oakmoss, musk, tonka bean, vetiver, cedar

Concluding Assessment: His or Hers?

Bvlgari pour Femme ou pour Homme?

No surprise, given my long-term relationship with Bvlgari pour Femme, HERS gets my vote today. I would love to hear from the guys out there about what I take to be the MIA notes in  Bvlgari pour Homme. Also: has it been reformulated? Does anyone know? Eighteen years seems like a long time, and if this fragrance for men were produced by nearly any other house, I'd have guessed yes. But apparently Bvlgari pour Femme has not been reformulated, so perhaps pour Homme, too, has remained the same?

I'll close by clarifying that I consider Bvlgari pour Femme to be a feminine, not a unisex perfume. In contrast, Bvlgari pour Homme strikes me as completely unisex, but I happen to like it less. In a lifeboat scenario where only one bottle was allowed for everyone on board, I'd be willing to forego the feminine version in order to avoid mutiny, but barring that sort of unlikely situation, I'd choose Bvlgari pour Femme for myself.

Running Tally: His or Hers?

His:
Dolce& Gabbana Light Blue 
Lalique Encre Noire 
Lolita Lempicka au Masculin

Hers: 
Prada Amber
Thierry Mugler Angel
Dsquared² She Wood

Bvlgari pour Femme

Artisan by John Varvatos

For as long as I can recall, I have been a sucker for orange. Whether or not it's the theme of a fragrance or a well implemented rendition of the note, I suppose I like what I like. I also own my fair share of these and have a few stockpiled for future use since everything is reformulated these days. If any fragrance becomes popular enough to keep in production, there's no telling how many times it will be "changed" over time.

Artisan, by John Varvatos has slipped by me these last few years. That is, until I obtained a large sample that was included with a bunch of others recently procured by yours truly. I admit I didn't expect to like it as much as I do. I chalk that up to the numerous, disappointing masculines presently available at our local malls. That's not to say that all things current suck. That would be assanine on my part, but let's face it, the standout releases are becoming few and far between. The ingredient restrictions surely aren't helping matters either. Artisan, by John Varvatos, has managed to smell very good in spite of it all.

The orange note represented here isn't "pure", but palpable enough to lodge in one's throat ( so to speak ). Atelier does that to me as well. This version isn't as big, fat or juicy, but good in its own right. It's definitely sufficient for the task at hand. The citric theme has impressive hang time as it remains obvious even in the base and drydown stages.

On my skin, Artisan delivers citrus, spice and musk all blended in such a way as to showcase the Orange note. The other players are there for the ride, but play a subtle and important role.  They give the citrus a different edge, plus allow for a comfortable sensuality to manifest later in the wearings.

I like this scent. Sillage is tuned exceptionally well and longevity is approximately 6 hours on my skin. Not too shabby for a citric dominant fragrance. Thumbs up from Aromi for John Varvatos and his Artisan release. A sample wear is highly recommended.

Encounter by Calvin Klein

Mandarin, Cardamom, Rum, Pepper, Jasmine, Patchouli, Cognac, Oud, Cedar, Musk.

Okay, so I'm guessing that the designer houses feel the need to add the oud note in their accord listings these days. The "oud" in Klein's Encounter is reminiscent to barbershop implementations the likes of Black Elixir. To be honest, I prefer this type of oud rendition than I do the boisterous versions found in most high end releases. They tend to be permeating beyond reason, but there are exceptions. The more low-end the oud, the more balanced it seems to be to me. One must take into consideration that the barbershop "ouds" I've tried smell nothing like niche versions. I'm not certain it should even be called oud, but that's another argument.

Encounter by Klein opens with a peppery citrus and balsam. There's a herbal element here lending a polite,stem-like aspect to a safe top accord. Nothing groundbreaking, but pleasant is better than the alternative. It seems so may new releases ( including this one ) embody a borderline chemical vibe and cautious approach. Gone are the days of shock and awe, so for the time being, we will have to become accustomed to a more generic totality.

The Agar rendition is akin to some barbershop products like I mentioned above, but it's balanced and has an acceptable interplay with the implementation of Musk. The Earth and Wood tones are downplayed on my skin, but quite possibly may perform better on others. They accent what's already been described, in spite of being blurred representations. Overall, Encounter is an acceptable masculine for today's sensibilities, but just don't expect anything other than a very ordinary scent. Sillage is average with longevity approximately 4 hours or a little better on me. Neutral rating from Aromi for Clavin Klein's Encounter. A sample wear is highly recommended.