Thursday, April 17, 2014
Easily the most simplistic of the Terroir releases, 38°N 16°E is all about Bergamot. Dedicated citrus fragrances aren't for everyone and in spite of the listed Blossom, Sandalwood and Incense, this creation is, at least on my skin, an experience of straight up Bergamot.
The opening is a beautiful rendition of Blossom and Bergamot, but within 3 minutes the Blossom winds down and allows Bergamot front and center position. I've said it before and will reiterate that Blossom has a tendency to gain momentum and take over a large portion of a composition. Not so with 38°N 16°E.
Frankincense, like its co-conspirator, simply isn't loud enough to have a say in this release. In extended drydown, you may experience a ghostly whiff of it if you focus, but I prefer not to work that hard when I'm wearing something for enjoyment. Still, I find 38°N 16°E a pleasant and viable Citrus scent that YOU will have to make up your own minds about. Thumbs up from Aromi for 38°N 16°E, but with a caution. In this case, as always, a sample wear is highly recommended.
Wednesday, April 16, 2014
A cacophony of bitter and sweet spiciness wash over you as soon as you apply 14°S-48°E. The combination of what must be Mandarin peel integrated with Ylang is an extraordinary aroma. I can't say it's the most pleasant accord I've smelled, because it isn't. However, it sure is interesting and after 5 minutes, the insertion of vetiver into the transition enhances that feeling. The opening accord is a bit Lutenesque on my skin, but 14°S-48°E evolves quickly enough that my comparison is a fleeting memory. These are earth tones implemented well, but unless you have a proclivity for these elements, this may only garner your respect.
Notwithstanding, 14°S-48°E is an enjoyable wear and the unique opening accord is a standout to me. So is the smokiness and the subtle, nutty quality of the vetiver rendition. In spite of the presence dying down within 2 hours or less, the personal space aroma is very good. This, could in fact be a favorable aspect for those looking for a fragrance that performs in this manner. There's no doubt it would work well in an office setting or the like. Sillage is moderate and I've already declared longevity. Still, thumbs up from Aromi for 14°S-48°E with a strong suggestion to sample first in lieu of purchase.
Ginger, Juniper, Nutmeg, Ylang-Ylang, Wormwood, Sandalwood, Basil, Pepper, Coriander.
Patchouli, Vetiver, Benzoin, Leather, Oakmoss.
Coriolan is named after a Roman General who lived in the 5th century before Christ. Coriolan, the fragrance, to me at least is a tale of 2 scents and it's perfectly fitting, since the ancient General had 2 important chapters in his life. One as a hero who was then exiled. The next commanding enemies of Rome to besiege the city. I wouldn't go so far to say that Coriolan performs, on my skin, like a schizophrenic fragrance, but I do find it a bit disjointed.
Sillage is acceptable or perhaps better, but isn't loaded with presence. Longevity seems to be a tad thin at 3 hours, but lingers a few more as a pleasant skin scent. Thumbs up from Aromi for Guerlain's unsung Coriolan and a very strong suggestion to sample before purchase.
Tuesday, April 15, 2014
I cannot help but be reminded that this smells like something that Caron could have created. It has a classic vibe to it, due to the combination of Lavender and Vanilla. It wears like you'd expect a well made scent to do and leans a bit dense.
The first few minutes are invigorating and I can almost smell the stones in the fragrance description. Evolving effortlessly from that is the herbal quality accented with pine. I can imagine a hillside, sloping upwards, with jutting rocks, boulders, shrubbery and lavender, with pine toward the skyline. This accord basically unravels at once, with Vanilla clawing its way into the sunlight.
After 20 minutes and onward, a resin quality comes to the fore. It was there all along, lurking until it decided to become directly involved. Its voice is tuned to the same pitch as the remaining lavender, vanilla and woody herbs.
Sillage is somewhere between moderate and perfect, with longevity approximately 3-4 hours before dissipating into a personal space scent that lasts about the same. Thumbs up from Aromi for 44°n-3° and a tip of the cap to Mr. Tauer for giving new life to a classic genre. A sample wear is recommended in lieu of blind purchase.
Monday, April 14, 2014
46°N 08° opens with a very nice, aromatic blast of what reminds me of green and whiffs of smoke on a breeze. It's a lucid top accord that settles quickly, while maintaining a biting green and smoky character.
I use the term biting in place of bitter because it's not quite that. It's somewhere between biting and bracing and this aspect of the scent is tuned well. The smoke, at least on my skin, evolves into more of an incense rendition within a few minutes. I believe it's this, in addition to Gentian, that keep this a little edgy.
Sillage is average with longevity approximately 3 hours on my skin, with hours more as a skin scent. Do I like 46°n-08° ? I actually do like it, but I'm aware of more economical choices that can afford me similar wears at extremely affordable prices. What can be taken into consideration is the fact that well made perfumes, like this one, are usually discontinued rather quickly these days. They don't have to be remarkable to command good prices at auction once that happens. Neutral rating from Aromi for 46°n-08° and a strong suggestion to sample in lieu of purchase.
Sunday, April 13, 2014
First, a big thanks to Mia Von Trost from Parfumo for sending me samples representing the Terrior perfumes from this house located in Switzerland. Just a casual sniff of the sprayer had me intrigued. Out of the 5 representative fragrances, I decided on this one first for no particular reason.
Jumping the gun a bit, I have to say I love the "coffee note" in this. For me, I always seem to experience the suggestion of such notes and rarely ( if ever ) a literal interpretation. This rendition however is right in my wheelhouse and is the perfect counterpoint to the Gardenia.
The opening accord is a rich and substantial bouquet with Gardenia walking point. This lasts only seconds. The Coffee accord is immediately content to make its presence felt and at least on my skin, it's the loudest voice. It's safe to say that within the initial minute of application, this unravels fully developed. I have absolutely no qualms with that as I love what I'm smelling. I also have to declare that there's no gender barrier here. I would thoroughly enjoy smelling this on anyone close by. I keep thinking I'm getting subtle whiffs of either Anise or Tarragon in the coffee rendition, but I could be remiss. Perhaps it's the vanilla mentioned on their website or a combination of players.
04°N 74°W is a linear wear for me, but that's not a bad thing here. Sillage is tuned intelligently, but this can easily be overapplied. Longevity is approximately 4 hours with much more as a skin scent. The drydown is a nice, spicy resin on me. I am fortunate enough in life to have opportunity for sampling numerous, diverse fragrances. This is one of the few releases that, in spite of my not finding it outstanding, will cause me to seriously entertain a purchase. Thumbs up from Aromi for 04°N 74°W and as usual, a strong recommendation to sample before purchase.
Friday, April 11, 2014
What we don't hear enough about are the good sellers. Yes, good sellers who use the bay to do business. Are they the minority? Human nature will have us automatically thinking "of course they're the minority" !!! Honestly, I don't know if they are or aren't as I've been fortunate enough, over the years, to have dealt with mostly honorable sellers. In that group of good sellers, there is even a smaller contingent of people who go the extra mile and restore your faith, in not only purchasing there, but in people.
Now, I have purchased untold amounts of merchandise, over the years, using 3 different ebay accounts. The vast majority of sellers have been good to go and that's what buyers deserve and expect. They hold up their end of the deal, like they should, all the while ready to make a wrong right, if need be.
mrscentman and jessiecat from ebay get an enormous thumbs up from Aromi. They deserve it for their communication, integrity and generosity.
Monday, April 7, 2014
Jasmine, Lilac, Muguet, Narcissus, Rose, Tuberose, Violet, Ylang-Ylang.
Amber, Musk, Oakmoss, Sandalwood.
This 1986 fruity floral happens to be a personal favorite of a family member, so when I was presented with the chance to pick up a bottle with box for under $3.00, it was the perfect opportunity for me to sample a few full wearings.
We all know the 1980's were indicative of "big". Excess seemed to be the order of the day whether it was hair, fragrance or even spending. Liz Claiborne however, only represents that quality in the reflection of listed notes. It's chock full of them as you can see, yet isn't overstated on presence, sillage or longevity. There's even a moist quality inherent, for the life of the scent that embellishes the composition. Liz Claiborne is a legit fruity floral that some will undoubtedly gravitate to, while others will eschew. It's like any other fragrance in that respect. After wearing this numerous times, I can find nothing negative about it. I was hoping it would transition away from the "fresh cut green" aspect and evolve into a woody amber more than it does.
Sillage is moderate with longevity approximately 3-4 hours on my skin with healthy sprays. Neutral rating from Aromi with a strong suggestion to sample before purchase.
Tuesday, April 1, 2014
Balsam Fir, Carnation, Cinnamon, Cedar, Geranium, Jasmine, Nutmeg, Patchouli, Sandalwood.
Amber, Benzoin, Oakmoss, Musk, Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Vetiver.
In January of 2014, I decided I needed to streamline my wardrobe and seriously downsize my collection. Naturally, I've sold NOT ONE and have accumulated at least 50 more bottles. Sick you say? I'm inclined to agree and my justifications are always price point. I recently picked up Passion for Men NIB 120ml. Cologne Spray and same size After Shave for $7.00 US. I figure even if I hate my purchases, I can always get it back on auction........but that is contingent on me ever listing anything.........
Aesthetically, purple bottles or juice usually insinuate ( to me ) either soapy lavender or a fruity scent. Color association has its drawbacks for sure, yet Passion for Men exhibits some of each on my skin, depending upon the accord transition. The overall presence is lacking a bit, but it's possible that if it were more assertive, it might be too much. This has me wondering how the original may have been tuned and if there really is a noticeable and positive difference. Some reformulations I prefer over the original and Morabito's Or Black is a case in point.
Sillage is moderate with longevity approximately 3 hours on me, with a few more as a close scent. Thumbs up from Aromi for Liz Taylor's Passion for Men. For $7.00, this is a no brainer.
Artemesia, Carrot, Cedar, Carnation, Cinnamon, Jasmine, Iris, Patchouli, Vetiver.
Amber, Castoreum, Leather, Labdanum, Oakmoss, Musk.
So, you think you like dark and serious masculine scents? Have you tried Leonard pour Homme? If your answer is no, keep reading please and you may decide to either keep on going or snag yourself a sample of this soon.
Leonard PH is a somber wear on my skin. It's classically constructed, to a fault, with a rather obvious nod to the late 1970's and early 80's. I'm 57 years old and while this may have been released in my prime, I have always found it a bit stodgy. Now, this doesn't mean that Leonard PH isn't good or well made because it is. It simply boils down to a matter of taste and preference.
Brooding may be too strong a word to describe the totality of wearing this fragrance, but every time I do decide to don Leonard, I experience nothing uplifting at all. I need it to crack a smile, wink at me or just relax a bit, yet Leonard reminds me of a British Royal Guard. It's simply there with its pomp and circumstance, refusing to move, twitch or wrinkle a brow. Its presence is certainly felt and he has some muscle for sure, but I suppose I prefer my might with a dash of suppleness. It's safe to say I respect Leonard, yet decline his company more often than not. It all boils down to any fragrance hitting your comfort zone or at least coming close to it.
I always thought ( and still do ) that the color of the bottle perfectly represents the fragrance. If you're prone to enjoy boardroom type leather scents that mingle well with cigar smoke, by all means give this is a go. Sillage is good with longevity approximately 4 hours on me, with a few more as a personal space scent. Neutral rating from Aromi for this well known and respected powerhouse masculine. As always, a sample wear is highly recommended.
Monday, March 31, 2014
Cedar, Cyclamen, Geranium, Jasmine, Rose, Sandalwood.
Musk, Tonka Bean, Vetiver, Vanilla.
Years ago when I tried Black Silver, I honestly did not like it whatsoever. I seem to have an affinity for this house that started with my becoming acquainted with Success. This caused me to try, like and then purchase others like 24 Hour Morning and Evening.
Hence Black Silver entering my wardrobe, due to a blind purchase, based on confidence from the aforementioned fragrances. I admit to being very disappointed with it and relegating its use more as free samples to friends, before shoving it to the back of the line.
The most striking aspect I find wearing Black Silver is the combination of Lavender, Cyclamen and Musk. It's one of those groupings that has me continually sniffing it, regardless of whether or not I actually enjoy the accord. Addictive perhaps or maybe strangely intriguing, these three are the standouts on my skin. While not my favorite overall aroma, it is compelling enough to warrant discussion. From the opening blast, there's quite a bit going on in this dense brew. Citrus paves the way for an almost immediate introduction of Lavender, Woods, Ozone, Herbs and Balsam. Not your conventional masculine by a long shot.
Now, I'm not going to run out and buy a bottle to put back in my wardrobe. However, if I came across one cheaply at auction, I suppose I'd pull the trigger. Black Silver seems to be a scent that I'd enjoy visiting with, from time to time, while I relaxed at home. I have numerous others I enjoy wearing much more, yet they are less interesting. It seems Black Silver is a conundrum for me and I'm persuaded to believe it shall remain that way.
Sillage is good with longevity approximately 3 hours on me before evolving into a skin scent. Neutral rating from Aromi for MCM's Black Silver and a strong suggestion to sample before purchase.
Sunday, March 30, 2014
I have worn Active for Men now for 3 straight days trying to get a bead on this fragrance. Slowly, it's growing on me, but I admit to not liking the initial wearing. I'm assuming that this particular Pecksniff's is more suited for "light" and "casual" choices. If I'm mistaken, then I don't know what Pecksniff's was trying to accomplish when they sat down at the table to discuss creating it. At any rate, Active seems to share DNA with Horizon and smells like it has a more than a dash of it in the composition.
The ozonic-citric accord is the soul of Active, with the listed cedar lending the herbal embellishment. I experience no conventional woods here. I suppose that if Active had enlisted the help of the overused and contemporary rendition of Cedar, I would have found it less interesting than I do now. I never expected similarities to Horizon, but yet it's right here in front of my nose and a bit superior due to the bracing Grapefruit note. As I side by side these 2 scents, Horizon leans more herbal while Active relies more on the citrus to make its point. Still, they are very close.
Wednesday, March 26, 2014
Geranium, Iris, Jasmine, Rose, Ylang-Ylang.
Amber, Civet, Honey, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Styrax.
I recently purchased a vintage 4.2 oz. bottle with box from a very good seller on the bay. I have no problem giving auction sellers props here because the bad or indifferent ones (unfortunately) are the majority. The good ones leave an impression with me, so I will put out the name of jessiecat as I have with Henry Ong who sells under mrscentman.
Glancing at the listed notes above could have opened numerous doors for Missoni to stroll through. Depending upon how the parfumeur decided to balance the ingredients, this had many possibilities. I had anticipated an animalic floral, but that's simply not the case. There is a sensual quality here, but it's an accent if anything on my skin. Had this been tuned for a masculine release in 82, rest assured the Civet and Honey would have been amped up and aggressive.
Sillage is moderate unless sprayed heavily, with longevity approximately 5 hours on my skin with a light application. Thumbs up from Aromi for Missoni and as I always try to do, allow me to recommend a sample wear in lieu of purchase.
Sunday, March 16, 2014
I ran across a bottle of this 10 year old fragrance recently in a thrift store. It was an almost full 50ml. Eau de Parfum. When I consider picking up a scent in a place like this, extremely cheap or not, I always spritz it first to ensure it hasn't gone rancid or turned. Surprisingly, most I buy from bargain stores are intact, however there are instances when they're not. True Star smelled good to go, so I tossed it in the cart. Places like this are a source for me to acquire numerous scents that were never really mainstream and an opportunity to try them for under $3.00. Some are surprisingly good, some are very forgettable while others are downright unwearable.
True Star is a citric-floral that wears like an aquatic, but isn't one. I've worn this a few times now and have come to the conclusion that it's a nice choice for spring and summer. It always smells clean on my skin and although I never experience a genuine musk or sensual tone, it doesn't take away from the fragrance. It also doesn't possess the depth of a conventional EDP, but it achieves longevity more as a skin scent after 2 hours. I'm always glad when I stumble upon fragrances that I would never be interested in trying at retail prices and they perform well. Sillage is average at best, with longevity approximately 4 hours on my skin with 50% of that being a skin scent. Thumbs up from Aromi for Hilfiger's versatile and pleasantly fresh True Star. You may have other ides, so a sample wear is highly recommended.
Friday, March 14, 2014
Neroli, Jasmine, Geranium, Sandalwood.
Cedarwood, Oakmoss, Musk, Ambergris, Tobacco.
I try and revisit fragrances that are iconic and ones that have left me wanting in previous reviews. The version of Cool Water I'm reviewing is exactly like the image, which means it's a reformulated rendition. I have no way of knowing how it compares ( side by side ) to a vintage version as I don't own one. I've never been moved enough to snag one and that is still the case unfortunately.
Even during the heart phase, the advent of a more revealing orange rendition is evident once the opening notes peel away. This too is fleeting and the chemical quality gets louder for the second time. Both these transitions have lived and died on my skin in a 10 minute period. What remains is an anhydrous version of H2O that possess undertones of Musk and Earth. A subtle interpretation of Tobacco arrives as well, but it's only noticeable because I was focused on what I was smelling. I don't desire to give the idea that I find Cool Water completely underwhelming. The fact is I don't, but it's possible that it simply doesn't perform on my skin like it does on others.
Funny how one persons gem, comfort fragrance or go-to scent is another man's "Meh". Now, there's a reason why, since 1988, this fragrance is still selling and also finding new found fans. If I knew nothing else about this scent, that would be enough. Moral of the story is not to take my word on Cool Water as WORD. You may find yourself loving it, despising it or end up in the camp I happen to be in. It simply needs to be tried so you can make up your own mind. Sillage is good with longevity approximately 4 hours tops on my skin, with one third of that as a skin scent. Neutral rating from Aromi ( again !!!) for Davidoff's infamous Cool Water and as always, a sample wear is highly recommended.
Thursday, March 13, 2014
Violet, Rose, Daffodil, Mimosa, Iris, Sage, Geranium.
Cedar, Vetiver, Oakmoss, Tonka Bean, Almond.
Grey Flannel is one of the few classic masculines that, to this day, gives me split personality. It's association to the woolen sheath it comes in is very appropriate ( at least to me ). I recognize individuality when I smell it and know beforehand that this particular scent is held in high regard by many. Still, I can't bring myself to love it or even give it full wearings, yet I keep it around to periodically visit with it and enjoy the eclecticism that is Grey Flannel. That may sound strange, but Grey Flannel isn't the only fragrance I esteem in a similar fashion.
The hardest part of wearing Grey Flannel for me is the heart accord. It's at its most rugged, unapologetic and virile part of its interesting life. I actually enjoy the top and drydown stages, but the heart accord is where I temporarily hit the wall. It's as if all the notes lift up their voices at once and the result is a dissonant cacophony of treble and scooped midrange. This stage simply doesn't suit me and never has, yet it evolves into a different melody after 20 minutes or so have elapsed. Once that transpires, I'm back to enjoying the Geoffrey Beene concert of perfume notes.
Wednesday, March 12, 2014
Acacia, Blackcurrant, Gardenia, Mimosa, Tuberose
Amber, Cedar, Sandalwood, Musk, Tonka, Vanilla
What's white, green, fruity, woody and strong as Arnold Schwarzenegger was in his heyday? Amarige is a no holds barred, multi-faceted floral that could be considered either terrific or outright headache inducing. The secret is using an extremely deft touch when applying this fragrance and you will undoubtedly experience a very well made and pleasant feminine floral. Go all Arnold on this and you will think you just met the Terminator after a sex change. I describe it in this fashion because of the negativity posted on reviews and forums about Amarige, by those who've had a bad experience wearing it or being close to someone who was.
I have nothing but respect for Amarige and its concept. This simply needs to worn intelligently and I'm persuaded to believe that the wearer will be complimented. As strong as it is, there's no evidence on my skin of screetchiness or worse; the old ice pick-through-the-skull syndrome. Sillage is impressive as is the swirl factor. Longevity is approximately an epoch on my skin and can easily be detected the following Christmas if you wear it in July. Just busting your chops. It lasts 8 hours plus and should be considered a feminine powerhouse. Thumbs up from Aromi for Givenchy's Amarige and a STRONG recommendation to sample before purchase.
Tuesday, March 11, 2014
Verbena, Artemesia, Cardamom, Cinnamon, Jasmine, Lavender, Pine Needles, Nutmeg, Sage, Oakmoss.
Rosemary, Amber, Cedar, Fir, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Geranium, Coriander, Rosewood, Moss.
Listed above is an impressive array of notes from the mid eighties. The formula I'm reviewing is a 1987 vintage bottle and I have no idea how it stacks up to newer releases of Bowling Green. The reason that doesn't matter is simple enough. The only times I need to emphasize "vintage" is if the fragrance I'm referring to is so good that it would stand to reason a "reformulation" would be ( at least ) a slightly inferior representation. In the case of Bowling Green, I find it a worthy scent, but not something that would or could be desecrated by changes. I suppose it's always a good idea ( if possible ) to do side by side comparisons.
Bowling Green opens with an eye opening shot of spicy citrus and the suggestion of fruit. The rendition of fruit in this reminds me somewhat of Etienne Aigner's releases of Statement and Private Number. This is a very full bodied opening accord that has more spices, herbs, earth tones and the aspect of pine quickly on the way. Instead of in your face "green", this is simply accented by it on my skin.